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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  agricultural  Experiment  station 

College  of  agriculture  e   j   wickson.  d. rector 

BERKELEY,    CALIFORNIA 

CIRCULAR  No.  59 

January,  1911 

TREE  GROWING  IN  THE  PUBLIC 
SCHOOLS 


BY 
ERNEST  B.  BABCOCK 

ASSISTED   BY 

HARRY  A.  GREENE 


FIVE   YEAR  OLD   COAST   LIVE   OAK 


TREE-GROWING  IN  THE  PUBLIC  SCHOOLS 

Foreword : 

Vocational  studies  will  sooner  or  later  receive  their  due  proportion 
of  time  in  the  daily  programs  of  our  public  schools.  If  certain  pro- 
posed laws  are  passed  communities  desiring  this  happy  change  may 
secure  it  if  the  people  are  willing  to  pay  part  of  the  initial  cost.  Mean- 
while progressive  school  people  and  communities  wish  to  make  a 
beginning  in  this  line  of  work.  Certain  phases  of  agriculture  and 
horticulture  have  already  been  introduced  into  courses  of  study.  But 
to  many  it  does  not  seem  possible  to  do  much  that  is  worth  while  under 
existing  conditions.  It  is  the  aim  of  this  circular  to  suggest  a  few  ways 
by  which  we  may  connect  school  activities  with  life  activities  and  thus 
prepare  our  boys  and  girls  to  be  more  efficient  citizens. 

Tree-study  and  tree-growing  comprise  a  special  phase  of  nature- 
study  and  gardening.  Gardening  is  one  kind  of  manual  work  that  is 
possible  in  some  degree  for  every  school.  Moreover  it  is  found  to  offer 
the  most  in  interest,  opportunity  and  educational  value  of  all  manual 
work  when  properly  conducted,  while  it  can  be  correlated  with  most 
of  the  other  studies  to  great  advantage.  Children  have  studied 
about  trees  in  school  for  years.  As  a  part  of  nature-study  the  work 
with  trees  has  been  largely  confined  to  practice  in  identification  and 
to  observation  of  life  histories,  together  with  stories  about  trees  in 
lower  grades,  and,  rarely,  elementary  forestry  from  books  and  bulletins 
in  upper  grades.  This  is  good  as  far  as  it  goes,  but  it  lacks  the  one 
thing  essential  to  vital  teaching.  Boys  and  girls  should  learn  to  grow 
trees.  Then  they  will  have  a  sound  basis  for  intelligent  appreciation 
of  the  economic  importance  of  trees.  We  have  made  pupils  learn 
dry  facts  about  lumbering  long  enough.  Now  let  us  have  them  first 
understand  what  it  means  to  grow  trees  for  lumber  and  we  shall 
see  the  next  generation  more  intelligent  on  the  great  subject  of 
conservation.* 

There  are  some  other  advantages  to  be  gained  through  tree- 
growing  in  the  schools.  We  have  thousands  of  miles  of  barren  country 
roadsides  in  California  that  could  be  planted  to  shade  trees  by  the 
school  children.  Of  course,  it  is  essential  that  the  trees  be  not  only 
well  grown  and  properly  planted  but  that  they  be  protected  and 
cared  for  until  established.  School  children  have  met  these  conditions 
successfully  in  some  localities  and  with  good  leadership  any  child  can 


*See    "Conservation    of    California    Resources"    by    Hon.    Edward    Hyatt, 
Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  .Sacramento,  California. 


do  this  work  well.  But  leaders  need  to  know  how  and  one  purpose  of 
this  circular  is  to  give  plain,  concise  directions  for  teachers  and  others 
who  desire  to  serve  the  community  in  this  way. 

We  now  have  state  laws  authorizing  county  supervisors  and  city 
councils  to  appropriate  money  for  the  planting  and  care  of  trees  along 
streets  and  roads.  A  scheme  has  been  worked  out  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Greene, 
of  Monterey,  by  which  school  children  might  grow  trees  for  this  pur- 
pose, make  a  first  class  guard  for  each  tree  and  care  for  the  trees 
during  the  first  year  for  a  cost  not  to  exceed  50  cents  per  tree.  It  is 
obvious  that  the  success  of  the  plan  would  depend  chiefly  upon  co- 
operation of  school  officials  and  teachers  in  the  districts  concerned. 
Granted  such  co-operation  and  with  the  help  of  one  competent  super- 
visor, good  results  should  be  secured.  What  is  needed  now  is  at 
least  one  unselfish,  public  spirited  citizen  in  every  county  with  treeless 
roads  to  push  this  good  work.  Meanwhile  individual  schools  and 
teachers  should  be  doing  what  they  can. 

There  is  always  the  need  of  improving  school  and  home  grounds 
and  trees  and  shrubs  offer  the  best  material  for  permanent  beautifica- 
tion  of  grounds  and  streets.  The  expense  of  securing  them  from  a 
nurseryman  is  often  prohibitive  and  when  obtained  in  that  way  the 
children  do  not  get  the  benefit  to  be  derived  from  growing  them. 
Growing  and  caring  for  trees  means  training  in  observation,  com- 
parison, judgment,  manipulation,  responsibility  and  true  patriotism 
and,  at  the  same  time,  provides  interesting  and  healthful  outdoor 
occupation. 

Tree-growing  will  be  practicable  for  manv  schools  where  ordinary 
gardening  is  not.  This  circular  is  intended  to  encourage  and  help 
superintendents,  trustees  and  teachers  to  introduce  tree-growing  into 
their  schools. 

BEST  TREES  FOR  CHILDREN  TO  GROW 

Some  trees  are  difficult  to  propagate  but  many  of  our  common 
native  and  exotic  species  can  easily  be  grown  if  proper  methods  are 
used.  The  time  required  for  germination  is  an  important  factor  in 
determining  the  best  trees  for  children  to  plant,  for  there  is  wide 
variation  in  the  germination  period  among  various  trees.  Considerable 
difficulty  has  been  experienced  in  getting  accurate  information  as  to 
time  of  ripening  and  germination  periods  and  the  writer  will  appreciate 
corrections  from  any  source.  All  the  trees  listed  below  are  desirable 
for  grounds  and  parks,  but  some  are  better  than  others  for  street 
and  roadside  planting.     The  latter  are  indicated  by  the  asterisk  (*). 


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In  the  case  of  many  trees  some  seeds  will  grow  if  the  seeds  are  merely 
planted  in  good  soil.  But  to  insure  greater  success  brief,  special 
directions  are  given  in  most  cases.  Where  no  directions  are  given  it 
is  to  be  understood  that  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown  in  beds  or  boxes 
according  to  the  general  directions  given  below.  In  some  cases 
the  special  directions  refer  to  keeping  the  seed  in  case  it  is  not  con- 
venient to  plant  it  when  gathered  or  received.  This  should  assist 
schools  in  keeping  seed  for  exchange  and,  to  some  extent,  prevent 
the  great  waste  of  tree  seed  which  now  exists. 

HOW  TO  GROW  TREES 

In  general  seedage  operations  differ  according  to  size  of  seeds. 
Large  and  small  being  relative  terms,  we  have  chosen  an  arbitrary 
measure  for  the  purpose  of  dividing  seeds  into  two  classes. 

Methods  for  Large  Seeds. 

(Longest  dimension  of  seed  1-4  inch  or  more). 

(1).  Sprouting.  Provide  a  box  or  make  a  sunken  bed  6  or  8 
inches"deep.  Fill  in  about  4  inches  of  sand  or  coal  screenings  if  sand  is 
scarce.  Place  seeds  on  this  bed  and  cover  with  sand  to  a  depth  of 
1-2  to  2  inches,  according  to  size.  Keep  moist  by  occasional  watering 
if  there  is  no  rain.  Examine  frequently  after  the  first  month.  When 
nuts  and  other  large  seeds  begin  to  sprout  they  should  be  planted. 
Smaller  seeds  may  be  left  to  grow  until  2  or  3  inches  high  and  then 
transplanted.  In  regions  of  large  rainfall  or  where  drainage  is  poor 
it  is  better  to  have  the  box  elevated,  drained  and  banked  with  earth. 
The  method  above  described  is  called  stratification.  Orange,  loquat, 
cherry  and  other  seeds  that  die  if  allowed  to  become  dry  are  stratified 
in  damp  sand  or  leaf  mold  and  later  planted  in  seed  beds  where  they 
grow  for  one  year  before  being  set  in  the  nursery.  Elm,  maple,  ash  and 
box  elder  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way.  When  only  a  few  trees 
are  desired  in  certain  places  and  with  the  least  amount  of  work,  nuts 
and  stone  fruit  pits  may  be  planted  where  the  trees  are  to  grow,  putting 
two  or  three  in  a  place.  Acorns  should  be  kept  in  damp  sand,  leaf  mold 
or  moss,  in  a  cool,  darkened  place,  until  they  can  be  planted. 

(2).  Planting  Sprouted  Seeds.  The  easiest  method  is  to  plant 
the  sprouted  seeds  where  the  tree  is  to  remain  permanently.  When 
plans  for  beautification  are  definitely  arranged  and  certain  protection 
can  be  provided  for  the  seedlings  when  they  come  up,  this  method 
will  be  satisfactory  but  when  following  this  method  in  orchard  planting, 
of  walnuts  for  example,  growers  usually  plant  two  or  three  seeds  where 


one  tree  is  to  stand  and  then,  if  more  than  one  seedling  grows,  the 
strongest  is  saved.  This  would  answer  for  many  small  seeded  trees, 
if  several  seeds  were  planted  in  well  pulverized  soil  at  each  spot  where 
a  future  tree  is  desired.  The  acacias  and  most  of  the  common  deciduous 
trees  like  the  maple,  ash,  box  elder  and  catalpa  would  give  results  in 
this  way.  Often  it  is  not  convenient  to  plant  the  sprouted  seeds 
where  they  are  to  grow.  When  growing  trees  for  sale  or  for  exchange 
with  other  schools  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide  for  transplanting  and 
all  the  handling  necessary  in  connection  with  transportation  from 
grower  to  planter.  Two  general  methods  are  suggested  below  with 
the  expectation  that  they  will  be  varied  to  suit  conditions. 

(a)  For  varieties  not  difficult  to  transplant,  or  if  the  trees  are 
intended  for  shipment  or  transplanting  during  their  dormant  period, 
plant  the  sprouted  seeds  in  rows  3  or  4  feet  apart  so  as  to  allow  room 
to  cultivate  between  them.  This  is  the  method  in  general  use  among 
nurserymen. 

(b)  For  varieties  that  are  difficult  to  transplant  or  if  the  trees 
are  to  be  ready  for  shipment  or  transplanting  at  any  time,  one  needs 
some  special  arrangement  for  handling  the  trees  without  disturbing 
the  roots.  Ordinary  flower  pots  are  too  expensive  to  use  on  a  large 
scale  and  besides  the  trees  must  be  removed  from  them  when  trans- 
planted, an  operation  always  accompanied  with  more  or  less  risk, 
especially  with  cone-bearing  trees. 

The  Tin  Can 

The  cheapest  and  most  useful  device  for  the  safe  handling  of 
young  trees  is  the  ordinary  tin  can,  of  quart  size  or  larger.  By  speaking 
to  the  pupils  in  advance  it  will  be  possible  to  accumulate  a  stock  of 
tin  cans  sufficient  to  hold  all  the  trees  they  wish  to  grow.  Remove 
the  cut  end  with  a  can  opener  or  by  melting  the  solder.  Then  with  a 
sharp  hatchet  make  two  cuts  across  the  bottom  at  right  angles. 
This  provides  drainage  and  will  allow  the  roots  to  escape  after  the 
tree  is  set  out,  the  idea  being  to  leave  the  tree  right  in  the  can,  when 
planting  out,  as  the  tin  soon  corrodes  and,  as  already  stated,  the 
cross  cuts  in  the  bottom  allow  the  roots  to  grow  out  in  case  the 
can  does  not  disintegrate  soon  enough.  The  older  boys  will  soon 
learn  to  prepare  the  cans  without  danger  or  loss  of  time.  After 
the  sprouted  seeds  or  young  seedlings  taken  from  the  woods  have 
been  planted  in  cans,  they  should  be  set  in  rows  in  sunken  beds 
so  placed  as  to  have  partial  shade  during  most  of  the  day.  During 
the  dry  season  shade  the  cans  with  straw  or  other  mulch,  to  keep 


10 

the  moisture  uniform.  Set  the  cans  on  boards  or  handle  occasionally 
to  keep  the  roots  from  growing  through  into  the  soil  beneath. 
Trees  may  be  held  in  this  way  for  one  or  two  years  without  dif- 
ficulty. Figure  (1)  shows  98  varieties  of  seedling  trees  growing 
in  cans.  Where  there  is  any  danger  of  disturbance  by  animals, 
sharpened  sticks  stuck  among  the  cans  with  the  sharp  ends  up  will 
keep  out  chickens,  cats,  dogs  and  other  small  animals.  Trees  in 
cans  may  be  shipped  in  any  quantity  by  putting  them  in  a  wooden 
box  or  flat  and  building  a  frame  around  them  as  shown  in  figure  (2). 

(3)  Budding  and  Grafting  Fruit  and  Nut  trees.  Yearling 
seedlings  are  usually  budded  or  grafted  to  the  desired  varieties  while 
still  in  the  nursery  rows.  The  bud  or  graft  is  usually  allowed  to  grow 
at  least  one  year  before  being  transplanted.  The  details  of  budding 
and  grafting  are  explained  and  illustrated  in  "Agriculture  for  vSchools 
of  the  Pacific  vSlope"  by  Hilgard  and  Osterhout.   (*). 

Methods  for  Small  Seeds. 

(Longest  dimension  of  seed  less  than  1-4  inch). 

(1).  Germination.  The  first  requisite  to  success  in  germinating 
small  seeds  is  well-prepared  soil.  This  should  consist  of  about  one- 
third  ordinary  soil  free  from  alkali,  one-third  clean  bright  sand  and 
one-third  leaf  mold  or  thoroughly  rotted  compost.  If  good  leaf  mold 
or  compost  is  not  available,  the  ordinary  soil  and  sand  may  be  mixed 
in  equal  parts.  Do  not  use  beach  sand  unless  it  has  been  leached 
to  remove  the  salt.  It  is  important  that  the  soil  be  thoroughly 
mixed,  finely  pulverized  and  sifted.  To  make  a  sieve  knock  the 
bottom  out  of  a  box  and  tack  a  piece  of  window  screen  in  its  place, 
or  this  may  be  done  as  manual  training  work.  Sow  the  seed  in 
boxes  4  inches  deep.  First  fill  the  box  level  full  with  prepared  soil 
then  with  a  flat  block  of  wood  make  the  soil  firm.  Next  scatter 
the  seed  on  the  surface  and  sprinkle  over  it  enough  sand  to  cover 
the  seed  to  a  depth  equal  to  two  or  three  times  its  thickness.  Cover 
the  box  with  a  piece  of  coarse  cloth  or  sacking  which  may  be  left 
until  the  seeds  begin  to  germinate.  Water  thoroughly  and  set  the 
boxes  on  a  low  bench  in  partial  shade.  By  using  the  low  bench  seed 
boxes  may  be  cared  for  more  easily  and  are  somewhat  protected  from 
slugs  and  snails.  However,  when  growing  citrus,  eucalytpus  and  other 
trees  on  a  large  scale,  it  is  customary  to  prepare  seed  beds.  These 
are  usually  made  4  or  5  feet  wide  and  of  indefinite  length  with  four 


(*)     Cunningham,  Curtiss  &  Welch,  San  Francisco.     Price  $1.20. 


11 

foot  paths  between.     If  necessary  partial  shade  is  secured  by  a  lath 
covering  that  will  allow  about  half  the  sunlight  to  penetrate. 

(2 )    Transplanting  Small  Seedlings. 

(a)  This  is  an  important  step — points  to  remember: 

1.  Water  the  seed  box  shortly  before  transplanting  so  that  the 
soil  particles  will  cling  to  the  rootlets  and  prevent  their  drying  too 
much. 

2.  Have  the  soil  into  which  the  seedlings  are  to  be  transplanted 
sufficiently  moist  so  that  when  the  hole  is  made  to  receive  a  seedling 
the  soil  will  not  crumble  and  fill  the  hole.  A  piece  of  tin  4  inches 
square,  bent  into  cylindrical  form  is  useful  for  making  holes  and 
transferring  plants.  Press  cylinder  down  as  deep  as  root  of  seedling, 
squeeze  to  hold  core,  then  lift. 

3.  Each  seedling  needs  an  equal  chance  to  develop  a  root 
system. 

4.  Many  young  trees  have  been  lost  when  set  out  in  yard, 
field,  and  street,  but  this  is  unnecessary. 

5.  It  is  necessary  to  save  time  and  energy  in  handling,  ex- 
hibiting, shipping,  etc. 

(b)  How  shall  we  meet  requirements  numbers  3  to  5? 

1.  The  tin  can  heads  the  list  of  cheap  and  efficient  devices. 
(See  page  7). 

2.  Improved  partitioned  seedling  flats  have  been  made  by 
some  pupils.  Flats  are  shallow  boxes  usually  made  in  uniform  length 
and  width  and  four  or  five  inches  deep.  Nurserymen  usually  fill 
the  flats  to  within  one  inch  of  the  top  with  good  loam  and  set  the 
young  seedlings  in  ten  rows  of  ten  plants  each.  As  there  is  nothing 
to  prevent  the  roots  of  the  seedlings  from  interweaving,  it  is  necessarv 
to  cut  crosswise  and  lengthwise  between  the  trees  in  order  to  separate 
them.  This  destroys  the  roots  of  each  tree  somewhat  and  loosens 
the  soil  allowing  the  roots  to  dry  out  so  that  a  few  trees  usually  die. 
By  making  partitions  of  pieces  of  pasteboard  fitted  together  as  in  egg 
cartons  and  dipped  in  melted  paraffine,  a  flat  may  be  partitioned  so 
that  the  root  system  of  each  tree  has  an  equal  chance.  Figure  (3) 
shows  a  partitioned  flat  (on  the  right)  and  another  flat  containing 
cylinders  made  of  single  pieces  of  pasteboard  fastened  with  folded 
pieces  of  tin  and  dipped  in  paraffine.  The  crude  paraffine  can  be  bought 
at  10  cents  per  pound.  Cans  from  which  both  ends  have  been 
removed  may  be  used  instead  of  pasteboard  cylinders. 


12 


FIG.  3.     PARTITIONED   FLATS,   PASTEBOARD  CARTONS  AND  CYLINDERS 

(3).  Planting  Out.  Directions  for  setting  out  trees  have  been 
given  in  two  State  bulletins (*).  The  important  points  are  as  follows: 

(a)  Set  in  deep  soil  if  possible. 

(b)  Have  the  soil  thoroughly  prepared  beforehand.  In  pre- 
paring for  county  road  planting  have  three  or  four  furrows  turned  in 
the  fall  and  wait  until  January  or  February  to  set  the  trees. 

(c)  Dig  the  hole  larger  than  necessary  to  contain  the  roots; 
till  in  with  pulverized  surface  soil  below  and  around  the  roots.  In 
setting  street  trees  a  foot  of  sand,  gravel  or  poor  soil  on  top  will  tend 
to  direct  the  surface  roots  downward  and  thus  prevent  cracking 
cement  walks. 

(d)  Tramp  the  soil  firmly  while  filling  in.  Water  thoroughly 
afterward  so  as  to  pack  the  soil  around  the  roots. 

(e)  Trees  that  have  been  held  for  some  time  in  tin  cans  will 
develop  faster  if  the  can  is  slit  down  the  sides  with  tin  shears,  or  if 
the   can   is   entirelv   removed. 


(*)  See  "Suggestions  for  Garden  Work,"  Circular  46,  Agricultural  Ex- 
periment Station,  Berkeley,  Cal.,  and  "Arbor  Day,"  Bulletin  Office  Superintend- 
ent of  Public  Instruction,  Sacramento,  California. 


13 


Trees  That  Can  Be 

Grown  from  Cuttings. 
Many  trees  can  be 
grown  from  cuttings 
much  more  easily  than 
they  can  be  propagated 
from  the  seed.  Such 
deciduous  trees  as  the 
willow  and  cottonwood 
will  often  grow  from  a 
limb  broken  off  and 
stuck  in  moist  soil.  Well 
prepared  cuttings  of 
these  and  of  elm,  maple, 
sycamore  and  mulberry 
are  very  easily  rooted  in 
boxes  of  sand.  vSet  the 
boxes  in  a  cool,  shady 
place  until  the  cut  ends 
have  calloused  over  with 
young  cambium  tissue. 
Then  place  in  partial 
shade  so  as  to  start  the 
buds.  Cuttings  of  olive, 
fig  and  citrus  trees  can 
be  started  in  the  same 
way.  The  coast  redwood 
suckers  very  profusely 
from  stumps  and  roots. 
Young  suckers  from  a 
root  will  root  readily  if 
they  are  cut  seven- 
eighths  through  at  point 
of  union  with  the  root. 
After  the  roots  are  well 
started,  which  takes  sev- 
eral weeks,  the  sprouts 
can  be  lifted  and  placed 
in  tin  cans.  Use  water 
freely.  This  has  already  been  demonstrated  by  Mr.  H.  A.  Greene 
as  a  practical  method  of  reforestation.  Figure  (4)  shows  such  a 
root  less  than  one  year  after  planting. 


FIG.  4.     COAST  REDWOOD,  GROWN  FROM   ROOT 
SPROUT,  LESS  THAN  ONE  YEAR  AFTER  PLANTING 


Care  and  Protection  of  Young  Trees. 

(1).  Watering  Seed  Boxes  and  Beds.  Pines,  cypress,  eucalyptus, 
acacias,  oranges  and  in  fact  almost  any  young  tree  seedlings  will  die 
if  kept  too  moist.  They  are  usually  destroyed  by  a  mold-  or  mildew- 
like growth  which  develops  in  cool,  moist  weather.  To  prevent  such 
loss  watch  the  weather  and  water  accordingly  and  always  water  in  the 
morning,  not  at  night.  Never  let  seed  or  seedlings  get  dry  but  do 
not  water  if  they  are  moist  and  the  weather  is  damp.  In  humid 
regions  or  places  where  the  fungi  seem  to  develop  in  spite  of  careful 
watering  and  free  circulation  of  air,  it  will  pay  to  sterilize  the  soil 
with  weak  formaldehyde  solution  two  or  three  weeks  before  plant- 
ing, stirring  the  soil  occasionally  so  it  will  dry  out. 

(2).  Guards  for  Street  and  Roadside  Trees.  Some  form  of  pro- 
tection is  absolutely  necessary.  A  cheap  and  substantial  guard  has 
been  devised  by  Mr.  Greene,  which  he  calls  the  Monterey  Tree  Guard 
(see  figure  5).  This  guard  consists  of  four  redwood  strips  lxll-2 
inches,  6  feet  long  and  pointed  at  one  end,  encircled  by  6  or  8  strands 
of  wire  fastened  with  staples.  On  country  roads  barbed  wire  is  used, 
but  in  yards  and  on  city  streets  wire  without  barbs  is  better.  Children 
can  make  these  guards  for  about  25  cents  each.  They  are  durable, 
efficient  and  not  overly  conspicuous. 

To  make  the  Monterey  Tree  Guard  secure  a  slightly  tapering  log 
about  5  feet  long,  or  use  an  8-sided  post  as  shown  in  figure  (5a). 
Tack  on  four  sharpened  redwood  strips  90  degrees  apart  just  so  as  to 
hold  them  in  place  while  fastening  the  strands  of  wire.  Place  a  spool 
of  wire  on  an  axle  and  as  one  boy  draws  it  off  let  another  cut  it  in 
lengths  by  laying  it  across  the  edge  of  an  old  hatchet  and  striking 
it  with  a  hammer.  Attach  the  wires  as  shown  in  figure  (5b) 
closer  together  at  the  bottom  so  as  to  keep  out  small  animals  and 
farther  apart  above.  When  the  wires  are  in  place  pull  out  the 
temporary  nails  and  the  guard  is  complete. 

(3).  Watering  and  Mulching.  In  most  parts  of  California  young 
trees  need  at  least  two  waterings  during  the  first  dry  season,  especially 
if  not  set  out  in  cans.  This  should  be  understood  and  provided  for 
before  planting.  Danger  of  loss  will  be  greatly  reduced  if  a  thick 
mulch  of  weeds,  hay,  stable  manure  or  other  loose  material  be  placed 
around  the  tree  after  the  surface  soil  has  been  well  pulverized.  The 
better  the  mulching  the  longer  the  tree  will  endure  drouth. 

(4).  What  Is  to  Become  of  the  Trees  during  Vacation?  This  is  a 
question  which  it  is  important  to  have  answered  before  doing  much 
planting.      By   some  it  is   considered   an  insurmountable    difficulty. 


1.3 


(C)  (B)  (A) 

FIG.  5.     THE  MONTEREY  TREE  GUARD;     (A)  ON  THE  FORM;      (B)    COMPLETE; 
(C)  ENCLOSING  A  YOUNG  TREE 

The  writer  believes  that  if  the  trees  planted  before  the  end  of  the 
school  year  are  set  out  in  cans  and  are  well  mulched  after  planting, 
they  will  live  without  any  water  during  the  first  summer  if  they  are 
given  a  thorough  soaking  at  the  close  of  school.  But  the  problem 
of  caring  for  young  seedlings  in  cans,  boxes,  beds  or  nursery  on 
school    grounds   will   have   to   be   solved   by   the    pupils   themselves. 


16 


17 

Children  have  developed  enough  civic  pride  or  patriotism  to  volun- 
teer such  attention  as  is  necessary  to  bring  the  trees  through  the 
long  vacation.  Why  not  your  school?  Where  a  regular  janitor 
is  employed  the  problem  is  easy.  Trees  in  cans  may  be  taken 
home  and  a  few  attractive  prizes  should  bring  results.  "Where  there 
is  a  will,  there  is  a  way." 

BOYS'  AND  GIRLS'  CLUBS 

Tree  study  and  tree  growing  form  most  attractive  topics  for 
nature-study  and  agricultural  clubs.  Children  love  tree-study  ex- 
cursions whether  in  Central  Park,  New  York  City,  or  in  the  mountain 
wilds  of  our  own  State.  They  respond  to  wise  leadership.  They  may 
know  more  of  local  nature  lore  than  their  teacher  at  the  beginning 
but  their  teacher  should  know  how  to  open  their  eyes  to  wonders  and 
mysteries  they  never  dreamed  of  in  the  commonest  roadside  trees. 
Figure  (6)  is  a  picture  of  the  Monterey  Tree  Growing  Club.  The 
recording  of  local  nature  observations  has  interested  thousands  of 
children  in  the  schools  of  Nova  Scotia.  Make  a  list  of  the  common 
trees  in  your  vicinity.  (If  you  have  none  it  is  time  to  begin  growing 
them.)  It  is  always  interesting  to  study  bud  structure  and  to  note 
when  trees  leaf  out.  When  do  they  bloom,  set  seed,  mature  seed? 
Gather  seed  when  it  is  ripe  and  exchange  for  other  kinds  of  trees. 
Find  some  tree  planting  that  is  much  needed  in  the  community  and 
have  the  club  carry  it  out.  Some  small  tree  seeds  are  very  hard  to 
start  under  artificial  conditions  but  seem  to  germinate  in  the  natural 
habitat  of  the  tree.  The  white  alder  so  common  in  canons  and  creek 
bottoms  behaves  this  way.  In  May  or  June  the  tiny  seedlings  may 
be  found  by  the  thousand  in  the  wet  gravel  or  sand  along  the  streams. 
These  may  be  transferred  to  cans  or  flats  and  grown  successfully. 
The  alder  is  a  tree  of  rapid  growth  and  beautiful  symmetry.  In  the 
same  way,  oaks,  buckeyes,  bays,  walnuts,  maples  and  others  may  be 
found  and  transplanted  to  the  school  yard. 

In  connection  with  the  plan  for  planting  county  roadsides 
with  trees,  referred  to  on  page  3,  Mr.  Greene  planned  to  organize 
a  co-operative  tree  growing  club.  He  thinks  that  it  would  be  possible 
to  secure  an  appropriation  from  the  County  Supervisors  sufficient 
to  pay  50  cents  for  every  tree  properly  planted  and  cared  for  during 
the  first  year  by  school  children. 

TREE  SEED  EXCHANGE 

The  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  is  collecting  and  testing 
seeds  of  many  trees.  Any  school  desiring  to  grow  trees  not  found  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  school  is  invited  to  apply  for  seed.    Please  state  how 


IS 


many  kinds  of  trees  are  desired  and  for  how  many  pupils.  If  possible 
send  us  the  seed  of  local  trees  in  exchange.  Packages  weighing  less 
than  four  pounds  may  come  by  mail.  Packages  weighing  less  than 
25  pounds  may  be  sent  by  express  collect.  Those  over  25  pounds 
in  weight  should  be  sent  by  freight.  The  station  is  ready  to  co-operate 
in  every  way  possible  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  time  is  not  far  off  when 
most  of  our  schools  will  have  a  collection  of  the  best  trees  that  grow 
in  California. 


BEST  FREE  LITERATURE  ON  TREE  STUDY 

I.  Tree  Growing. 

(a)  To  be  obtained  from  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 
"How  to  Grow  Young  Trees  for  Forest  Planting."  Reprint  Yearbook,  1905. 
"Tree  Planting  on  Rural  School  Grounds."     Farmer's  Bulletin  134. 

"How  to  Transplant  Forest  Trees."     Forest  Service  Cicrular  61. 
"How  to  Pack  and  Ship  Young  Forest  Trees."     Forest  Service  Circular  55. 
"Suggestions  for   Forest  Planting  on   the   Semi-arid   Plains."      Forest  Service 
Circular  99. 

(b)  From  other  sources: 

"The  Monterey  Tree  Grower."  Occasional  numbers  published  by  Harry  A. 
Greene,  Jr.,  Monterey,  California.     10c  per  single  copy). 

"Drought-Resistant  Plants  for  the  Arid  Southwest."  Timely  Hints  for  Farmers 
No.  83,  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  Phoenix,  Ariz. 

"Forest,  Shade  and  Ornamental  Trees  in  Washington."  Bulletin  90,  Agri- 
cultural Experiment  Station,  Pullman,  Washington. 

II.  On  Various  Trees  (To  be  obtained  from  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture, 
Washington  D.  C  ). 


Bur  Oak,                                 Forest    Sen 

'ice  Circular    56 

Red  Oak, 

'               ' 

58 

Eucalyptus, 

' 

59 

Red  Pine, 

'               < 

60 

Shagbark  Hickory, 

' 

62 

Basswood, 

'               ' 

63 

Black  Locust, 

1              i 

64 

Norway  Spruce, 

'              ' 

65 

WThite  Elm, 

' 

66 

White  Pine, 

1              ' 

67 

Scotch  Pine, 

' 

68 

Fence  Post  Trees, 

'               ' 

69 

European  Larch, 

' 

70 

Chestnut, 

'               ' 

71 

Western  Yellow  Pine, 

'               < 

72 

Red  Cedar, 

• 

73 

Honey  Locust, 

' 

74 

Hackberry, 

'               ' 

75 

Silver  Maple, 

' 

76 

Cottonwood, 

' 

77 

White  Ash, 

' 

84 

Forest  Service  Circular    85 

" 

" 

86 

" 

" 

89 

" 

" 

91 

" 

' 

92 

ilipTree) 

< 

93 

94 

95 

106 

150 

182 

(Revised) 

" 

" 

183 

(To  be  obtained 

fro 

m 

the 

Secretary 

of   Agriculture, 

19 

Slippery  Elm, 

Boxelder, 

Tamarack, 

Coffee  tree, 

Green  Ash, 

Yellow  Poplar  (1 

Black  Cherry, 

vSugar  Maple, 

White  Oak, 

Douglas  Fir, 

Shortleaf  Pine, 

Loblolly  Pine, 
III    Forestry  for  Schools 

Washington,   D.  C.,). 
"Forestry  in  Nature  Study."      Special    Circular,    Office    Experiment    Stations. 
"Forestry  in  the  Public  Schools."     Forestry  Service  Circular  130. 
"A  Primer  of  Forestry,  Part  I.     The  Forest."     Farmers'  Bulletin  173. 
"A  Primer  of  Forestry,  Part  II.  Practical  Forestry."     Farmers'  Bulletin  35S. 
IV.    Other  Publications  for  Forestry  of  Interest  to  Schools.     (To     be     obtained 

from  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. ). 
"What  Forestry  Has  Done."     Forest  Service  Circular  140. 

"The  Status  of  Forestry  in  The  United  States."     Forest  Service  Circular    167. 
"The  Forests  of  the    United    States:    Their    Use."  "  "  "        171. 

"The   Timber  Supply  of   the   United  States."  "  "  "       166. 

"The  Future  Use  of  Land  in  the  United  States."        "  "  "       159. 

"The  Opportunities  in  Forest  Planting  for  the  Farmer."     Yearbook  Separate  517. 
"Practical  Assistance  to  Owners  of  Forest  Land  and  to  Tree  Planters."     Forest 

Service  Circular  165. 
"Forest  Planting  and  Farm  Management."     Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  228. 
"The  Control  of  Forest    Fires  at  McCloud,  California."     Forest  Service  Cir.  79. 
"Insect  Enemies  of  Forest  Reproduction."     Reprint  from  Yearbook  for  1905. 
"Forestry  and  the  Lumber  Supply."     Forest  Service  Circular  25. 
"The  Timber  Supply  of  the  United  States."     Forest  Service  Circular  97. 
'Cutting  Timber  on  the  National  Forests  and  Providing  for  a  Future  Supply." 

Reprint  from  Yearbook  of  Department  of  Agriculture  for  1907. 
"Forest  Preservation  and  National  Prosperity."     Forest  Service  Circular  35. 
"Declaration  of  Governors  for  Conservation  of  Natural  Resources." 
Farmers'   Bulletin  340. 

BEST  BOOKS  ON  TREES 

"The  Trees  of  California,"   by  W.  L.  Jepson.     Cunningham,  Curtiss  &  Welch, 

San  Francisco.     $2.50. 
"Forest  Trees  of  the  Pacific  Slope."     by  Geo.  B.  Sudworth,  Superintendent  of 

Documents,  Washington,  D.  C.     60  cents. 
"The  Care  of  Trees."     by  G.  E.  Fernow.     Henry  Holt  &  Co.  New  York.  $2.00. 
"Arbor  Day"  by  Schaufner-Mofht  Yard  Co.,  New  York.  $1.00. 
"The  Nursery  Book"  by  L.  H.  Bailey.     Macmillan  Co.  $1.50. 
"First  Book  of  Forestry"  by  F.  Roth.     Ginn  &  Co.,  Boston.     75  cents. 
"Practical  Forestry"  by  J.  Gifford.     D.  Appleton  &  Co.,  New  York.  $1.20. 
"OurTreesandHowto  Know  Them."  Emerson&  Weed.  J.B.LippincottCo.  $3.00. 
Nature  Library,  vol.  IX,  "Trees."   J.  E.  Rogers.    Doubleday,  Page  &  Co.  $4.00. 


WETZEL  BROS.  PRINTING  CO. 

BERKELEY,  CALIFORNIA 


